Welt shoemaking



Feb. 14, 1939. w M PAGE 2,147,412

WEILT SHOEMAKING Filed April 18, 1956 tum fi. 0 W W Mm Wibwwgy PatentedFeb. 14, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 7 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of welt shoes and comprises anovel shoemaking process characterized by certain steps which greatlysimplify the operation of attaching the welt to the upper, and ingeneral, improve the accuracy and convenience of manufacturing weltshoes. The process of my invention also results in a substantialreduction in the cost of manufacturing shoes of this type and provides awelt shoe of lighter and more flexible construction than has beenavailable heretofore.

In my prior U. S. Letters Patent No. 2,145,818, dated January 31, 1939,I have disclosed a shoemaking process characterized by stiffening thelasted upperin a zone about the marginal edge of the last bottom, thusconverting this portion of the upper into a stiff, self-sustaining framewhich is not subject to deformation but which preserves the shapeimparted to it throughout the 20 subsequent shoemaking operation. Onesatisfactory manner of stiffening the upper in this manner consists inincorporating therein a celanese textile fabric impregnated with apyroxylin compound which may be temporarily softened by a solvent priorto the lasting operation, and which has the property of hardening so asto convert the upper permanently into the molded shape imparted to itslasted margin in the lasting operation. Preferably, as herein shown, thestiif- 30 ened zone in the upper includes the overlasted margin whichlies fiat upon the last bottom and a portion of the side walls of theupper and thus constitutes a peripheral frame extending continuouslyabout the forepart of the shoe and being of angular cross section.

The last operation may be carried out in any desired or conventionalmanner and the overlasted margin secured temporarily by lasting tacks.When the upper has stiffened upon the last the lasting tacks may beremoved, the overlasted margin trimmed if desired, and the upper removedfrom the last in this condition. It will be apparent thereupon that theeverlasted margin presents a thin, flat, stiff flange extend- 45 inginwardly at substantially right angles to the adjacent walls of theupper which are also stiffened and that the inner edge of the stiffenedflange defines an opening of substantial size in the shoe bottom.Molding an angle iron strip 50 into the margin would result in a similareifect. The flange prepared in this manner is in ideal condition to havea welt attached to it. In the first place it presents a free overhangingedge so that both faces may be conveniently engaged by 55 pressing orstitching instrumentalities. The thin,

stiff, continuous flange may be conveniently handled and advanced to thewelt attaching point by the operator. Moreover, the stiifened uprightwall of the upper affords an accurate gaug ing surface from which thelocation of the welt 5 may be gauged with precision.

The overhanging condition of the flange of the upper offers a wonderfulopportunity for securing a welt thereto because it affords such completeand easy access to both sides of the flange. 10 For example, the weltmay be secured by a lockstitch seam since the shuttle may be readilyintroduced beneath the flange through the opening in the shoe bottom. Ifthe Welt be cemented to the flange cooperative pressure device may beoperated across the free edge of the flange to apply progressivepressure to the superposed welt and flange.

Having sewed or otherwise attached the welt to the upper as aboveexplained the shoe may be completed by securing a single outsole to thewelt and this sole may be of light and flexible character. The outsolemay be shouldered to fit the opening inthe shoe bottom defined by theoverlasted marging, or a preformed filler blank may be secured to itsinner face, but in any case a single soled, smooth bottom, light,flexible welt shoe results in which the fine lines of the last arepreserved to a striking degree.

These and other features and characteristics of the novel process of myinvention will be best understood and appreciated from the followingdescription of one manner in which it may be carried out as illustratedin the accompanying drawing, in which,

Fig. 1 is a view in perspective of an upper turned inside out and shownwith the lining turned back to permit the stiffening strip to bemoistened.

Fig. 2 is a view in perspective showing the fore- 40 part of the lastedupper upon the last with portions broken away.

Fig. 3 is a similar view of the forepart of the upper upon the last,after the trimming operation.

Fig. 4 is a view in perspective illustrative of the welt sewingoperation.

Fig. 5 is a view in cross section on an enlarged scale of the weltedupper in the plane of the needle, and

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary View in elevation of a portion of the finishedshoe.

The upper Ill and its lining II are first cut out to the required shapeand size, itbeing re-' membered that, in accordance with the process ofmy invention, the size of both of these blanks may be substantiallyreduced as compared to the size of corresponding blanks to be utilizedin processes heretofore commercially practiced. As herein shown, thestiffening strip l2, may be of celastic material, that is to say, astrip of textile material impregnated with a pyroxylin compound whichhas the properties of softening under the application of a suitablesolvent and of setting in a hard, stiff condition when the solvent hasevaporated. The strip i2 is shown as slashed along one edge and assecured to the margin of the upper ID by a line of stitching l3.Preferably the outer margins of the strip I2 and of the upper Ill arelocated in flush relation, although the strip may be attached in anylocation which will position it properly with respect to the marginaledge of the last. In the present instance the stiffening strip i2 isabout inch wide and in passing about the toe portion of the upper thetongues formed by the slashes are brought into a partial overlapping sothat the strip as a whole lies smoothly upon the inner surface of theupper. The strip may be applied continuously as herein shown or inshorter lengths if preferred.

Having prepared the lined vamp as indicated in Fig. 1 it may be madeready for the lasting operation by softening the strip l2 and this maybe conveniently done by the application of a liquid solvent. Forexample, the lining Il may be folded back and the strip l2 passedcontinuously beneath a nozzle l4 arranged to supply the solvent inproper quantity. When the strip l2 has been rendered soft and limp thelined upper is ready to be placed upon a last !5, pulled over, and

then lasted in any desired manner, as for example,

by a hand method machine driving lasting tacks 16. As suggested in Fig.2 the lasting operation is carried out upon a bare last in such a mannerthat the softened strip I2 is molded over the vertex formed by themarginal edge of the last bottom, that is, a portion of the strip islocated in the overlasted flange of the upper and a portion is locatedin the upstanding side walls of the upper against the walls of the last.The lining I! is lasted directly in'contact with the wood of the lastand the entire overlasted margin is temporarily held in place by thelasting tacks !6.

At the conclusion of the lasting operation the celastic strip I! whichhas now become fused into the upper and lining and molded with them, isallowed to set, and this calls merely for a drying operation sufficientto remove the liquid solvent. It may be effected in a few minutes withthe assistance of a drier or will take place by natural evaporation atroom temperature within a short time. Its effect is to stiffen andharden the lasted margin of the upper in the form of a continuousintegral frame molded accurately to the shape of the last and capable ofpermanently retaining its shape throughout further treatment of theupper.

At the conclusion of the drying operation, when the molded frame in theupper has acquired its stiffened character, the lasting tacks l6 may bewithdrawn and the overlasted margin of the upper trimmed upon the lastbottom. A portion of a shoe in this condition is illustrated in Fig. 3.The inturned margin of the upper is trimmed on a line parallel to thecontour of the last or otherwise operated upon to form a clean-cutopening of definite area in the shoe bottom which may be subsequentlyfilled by a preformed filler, as will be presently explained. It isimmaterial whether or not in the trimming operation the seam l3 unitingthe strip I 2 to the upper is removed, since the margin of the linedupper is now in effect fused into a solid mass and reduced to a singlecomposite ply.

The lasted upper, in the condition shown in Fig. 3, may now be removedfrom the last without danger of being misshapen and it is so shown inFig. 4. The overlasted margin comprises a flat stiff flange whichextends about the periphery of the shoe bottom leaving a substantialopening therein and the upstanding walls of the upper adjacent to theoverlasted flange are also stiffened for an appreciable distance aboutthe shoe bottom. It will be understood that under these conditions, thestiffened flange may be presented conveniently to sewinginstrumentalities or subjected to any other desired treatment.

As shown in Fig. 4 it is proposed to sew a welt strip l8 to this flangeby a lock stitch seam 19. For this purpose the molded upper is presentedto a sewing machine having a projecting work arm 20 carrying a workplate2! with a horizontal gauge roll 22 let into its forward end. The gaugeroll 22 is centrally perforated to permit the passage of the needle 26.The arm 29 also carries within its forward end a shuttle 23, and thismay be operated in the usual manner by mechanism not herein shown. Thesewing machine has also an overhead arm 24- in which is mounted areciprocatory needle bar 25 carrying the needle 26. A presser foot bar2! is also carried by the arm 24 and is provided with a presser foot,shown in Fig. 5, operating in the usual manner to position the work uponthe work plate 2! and hold the superposed welt and flange under pressureat the sewing point.

It will be apparent that the work arm 23 may be conveniently presentedthrough the opening in the shoe bottom to position the work platebeneath the stiffened flange of the upper and that, having so positionedthe work plate, the upper may be advanced continuously to carry thesewing point around the forepart of the shoe, securing the welt stripthereto by a lock stitch seam as suggested in Figs. 4 and 5. The weltsewing operation may be carried out accurately since the location of thewelt and of the seam may be gauged by the gauge roll 22 running againstthe inner face of the stiffened upright wall of the upper adjacent toits marginal fold vertex or in any other desired gauged relation withrespect to the stiffened flange. This operation may be carried outconveniently without tendency to disturb or distort the upper and withthe sewing point in plain sight and the work in full control of theoperator. The welting may extend to the ball line of the shoe, or, insome cases, to the heel breast line, depending upon the nature of thework in hand, and the rear ends of the welt may be bevelled in the usualmanner.

The lasting of the heel seat is not herein shown since it forms no partof the present invention and may be dealt with in any convenientcommercial manner. Having completed the welt sewing operation, a singleoutsole is prepared which is shouldered or provided with a preformedfiller having the proper contour to fill exactly the opening defined bythe trimmed overlasted margin of the upper in the shoe bottom. As shownin Fig. 6 the outsole 3G is provided upon its inner face with a filler3! of sheet material of just the shape and thickness to drop into theopening of the shoe bottom, filling the same and forming a smooth flushsurface with the trimmed overlasted flange of the upper. The outsole maybe then secured to the welt by the usual outseam or may be cemented tothe welt and the shoe completed in conventional manner,

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is,

1. A process of shoemaking including the steps of stiffening an upperabout the marginal edge of a bare last bottom, removing the lasted upperfrom the last with its stiffened overlasted flange forming an open frameabout the periphery of the shoe bottom, presenting a shuttle threadsupply through the opening of said frame in position beneath saidflange, and sewing a welt to the flange by a lock-stitch seam employinga shuttle thread therein from said supply.

2. A process of shoemaking including the steps of forming a stiffenedframe in the margin of a lasted upper which frame includes theoverlasted flange, removing the upper from the last, introducing asupport for the flange through the space in the bottom of the upperbetween the flange edges, and sewing a welt to the flange while sosupported.

3. A process of shoemaking including the steps of molding into an uppera stiff marginal frame including the overlasted flange, trimming theflange to present an opening of predetermined contour in the shoebottom, and sewing a welt to said flange while the latter isprogressively advanced across a thread supplying member which isintroduced beneath the flange through the opening in the shoe bottom.

4. A process of shoemaking including the steps of forming a stiff framein the margin of a lasted upper which frame includes the overlastedflange, removing the upper from the last, and sewing a welt to saidflange by an overhead needle and a shuttle introduced beneath the flangethrough the space between the free edges thereof.

5. A process of welt shoemaking including the steps of molding thelasted margin of a lined upper to a bare last and simultaneously forminga stiff flange in the overlasted margin thereof, trimming the flange toa predetermined width, then supporting the stiff flange with its trimmededge overhanging, and securing a welt thereto while sosupported.

6. A process of welt shoemaking including the steps of molding themargin of an upper into a stiff, open-center frame of angular crosssection in which is included the overlasted margin and part of the sidewalls of the upper, trimming the stiffened margin to present a smoothinner edge, placing a welt upon the trimmed margin while the latterpresents a free overhanging edge, subjecting the superposed welt andflange to pressure, and securing them together.

7. A process of welt shoemaking which is characterized by the steps oflasting the margin of the upper over the bottom of a last, stiffeningthe overlasted upper material while in position on the last so that itpresents a stiff, self-sustaining flange conforming in contour to thelast bottom, trimming the inner edge of said flange, and then sewing awelt in gauged relation to the stiff flange thus produced.

WILLIAM M. PAGE.

